We do not provide a day-to-day itinerary for the climbing period, as this will be determined by the expedition leader and members. Guides will take a flexible approach based on what fits with climbers’ and their own experience. Typically, the team will spend a few days at the base camp organizing food, practicing rope skills, and acclimatizing before moving above the base camp. It is normal to ‘tag,’ or spend at least one night in Camp 1 (5700m), as part of any acclimatization schedule before returning to the base camp, resting, and preparing for a summit push.
Ama Dablam climbs via southwest ridge After leaving the base camp old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle 5150m from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle, we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. We may place an advanced base camp at 5400m below the boulder field. The route continues north around the base of the boulder field, and then follows cairns upward to the toe of the southwest ridge. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, allowing access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1. There are four or five tent platforms.
From Camp 1 we contour around the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until we are below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of “severe” standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, with difficult turns on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of “very severe” standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easily navigable roads followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15-meter pitch, just below Camp 2, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VHS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp 2 (5900m). Camp 2 has very limited tent space (three or four tent platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used to store equipment dump, with expeditions choosing to go from Camp 1 to Camp 3 in a single push.
From Camp 2, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and, after a step-down, follows the snow ridge directly to a tricky traverse east. This leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended, allowing us to reach the start of the Mushroom Ridge. Following this typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp 3 (6300m) is reached.
The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp 3 and to the right-hand side of Dablam. We continue to skirt Dablam on the right, then moving west to gain a small snowfield below the Bergschrund. The Bergschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the ice crest above. This is followed by a magnificent climb to the summit. The climb from Camp 3 to the summit is relatively less technical. After summiting the peak, we return back to the base camp. Overnight at Tent camp.
